EPSRC DTP – Technology and engineering to enable inclusivity in fashion

Pattern drafting and construction methods for clothing are focused on a narrow shape range and do not provide garments suitable for diverse populations. This research will build on parametric pattern drafting methods pioneered by the Apparel Design Engineering (ADE) group to establish methods for more inclusive products suitable for bodies which do not meet existing fashion norms. The project will require the analysis of existing population data captured using body scanning, the determination of a specific population set and the testing and development of pattern drafting methods to explore their suitability for the population.

The research will consider key measurements from a population that capture the specific shape requirements for garments, the mapping of these measurements to the pattern drafting process and the exploration of bespoke parametric patterns for individuals.

It will be necessary to gain ethical approval for the capturing of population data, the ADE group have run two 5 year population studies and have a suitable control databse.

Applying a product engineering approach, supported by the use of body scanning and CAD drafting methods, including pattern automation, it will be possible to better link pattern block drafts and necessary block adaptations to be undertaken during pattern development. This will support developments in body to pattern theory.

Current methods of pattern drafting are heavily reliant upon post draft amendments, usually requiring iterative prototyping to achieve good fit, this PhD will explore how to engineer for good fit as part of the pattern construction process.

ADE have established innovative methods to create patterns and make them responsive to the requirements of the individual. This includes considerations of shape and this research will enable the exploration of these methods, their testing and refinement to suit bodies from different ethnicities, sizes and shapes.

This project will explore existing digital tools, including open source software.

Entry Requirements:

Students with, or to achieve, a 2.1 degree or above, or masters in subjects such as fashion, computing or engineering.

Equality, diversity and inclusion is fundamental to the success of The University of Manchester, and is at the heart of all of our activities. We know that diversity strengthens our research community, leading to enhanced research creativity, productivity and quality, and societal and economic impact. We actively encourage applicants from diverse career paths and backgrounds and from all sections of the community, regardless of age, disability, ethnicity, gender, gender expression, sexual orientation and transgender status.

We also support applications from those returning from a career break or other roles. We consider offering flexible study arrangements (including part-time: 50%, 60% or 80%, depending on the project/funder). 

How to apply:

You will need to submit an online application through our website here: https://www.manchester.ac.uk/study/postgraduate-research/admissions/how-to-apply/ – ensure you mention ‘EPSRC DTP’ and the title / supervisor of the project in the ‘Research Details’ section of the application.